One of the weirdest parts of living in a hot place is wrapping myself around the concept of winter being the prime time. It should not be hard to fathom but after a lifetime of always looking forward to summer's arrival, it's strange to look forward to winter with such attention. But that's what life here is like! The whalesharks and humpback whales and orcas are all here in winter. The sleeping weather is cool and wonderful in winter. The days are warm in the sunshine, great for beach basking, and the evenings are perfect for wearing a warm sweater and sipping tea. Winter is magic here. The only drama is that everyone else knows that, too, so town gets a bit... hectic. With all the great weather comes all the tourists who fuel so many of the town's businesses. But even with the mayhem, I've still been able to sneak in some cheeky nights of camping to get out of town.
Back in May (my blog posts are really getting lax aren't they), a mate of Matty's invited him to come camping in the Gulf on Wilderness Island. Jim owns it, and runs a little homestead there with cabins and an amazing atmosphere. You can get there by boat or plane, and it's like a beautiful rustic oasis for folks to glamp. Cabins are all mesh enclosed to keep out the bugs and critters, and meals are eaten family-style with the staff and other visitors. Jim had a rare weekend with only one booking, so he told Matty to bring along as many mates as he wanted and gave us a shopping list of supplies to bring along with us. Can't say no to an offer like that!
Saturday morning when we were heading out was, as Matty would say, "blowing its guts out." The wind was wretched, the swell was massive, and we had to get across the Gulf. Scotty, Matty's only mate who agreed to brave the Gulf that morning, took me in his boat while Matty drove his jetski to the far side. It took us over 2 hours to get there and it sometimes felt like the trip was more up and down than forward motion.
Jim saw our approach and met us at the southern tip of the island, where they maintain a boat mooring for visitors to use. He picked us up in the island's pickup, and drove us back to the homestead for cheese platters, laughs, and beers. While Jim and his partner usually run the place, she and their son were overseas visiting family the weekend we visited. So the island population was Jim and his two staff, Brody and Hannah, an older couple, and the three of us. We spent the night hanging out in the common area, drinking rum and waltzing (Jim and I waltzed, anyway), talking about books, and politics, and life, and admiring the stars. Jim made an excellent fish curry and we were all in bed before 10pm. Everyone got their own cabin to sleep in and we practiced doing as little as possible.
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| View from the Common area |
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| From the common area, overlooking the cabins |
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| View from my cabin's front porch |
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| My Outdoor Bathroom on the side of the cabin! |
Sunday morning was lazy. Scotty headed back to town to pick up some extra supplies we'd forgotten, I slept in, Brody went fishing with half of the couple, and Matty tried to practice leaving me alone to sleep. Mixed results. All's well that ends well, we spent the whole day lounging about the common area, listening to music, chatting, napping, and generally trying to slow down. Having nothing to do all day was exactly the plan. We managed to stay up a little bit later Sunday and got to meet the resident roo, Hazel, and her joey!
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| Hazel and her joey |
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| Inside the common area |
Monday morning we lazed about a bit more before deciding to head back to town while the weather was good. After the hectic trip over, we wanted easy sailing back. Scotty had taken all the big stuff, so Matty and I just had to bring our little overnight bags and ourselves on the ski. It was beautiful weather and we were back in under 40 mins - a far cry from the trip over - and had the afternoon to laze about some more and think about the beauty of Wilderness Island.
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| Jim drove us back to the jetski in this very island-vibes ute |
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| My chariot |
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| View from the cabin |
We picked a great time to go because the next few weeks brought WILD amounts of rain to Exmouth. It was the same this time last year, but really unusual in the grand scheme of Exmouth weather, apparently. Tai and I were working a Saturday night and closed the venue early because our swimming pool was trying to take over the restaurant. With staff using industrial squeegees to try and push water out, the pool pump flushing water out as quickly as it could, and me running around in my yellow rain coat, trying to use pool towels as sandbags in the doorways, it was a bit hectic.
For a few weeks in a row, there, we were getting rain every week. Great for the plants, not great for mosquitos. Because Exmouth is desert, the water gets trapped in spots and will sit there for weeks, creating perfect breeding conditions for mozzies - it doesn't drain off, or sink into the ground the way it would in other climate zones. So the mozzies were really brutal for a few weeks at the end of May and early June.
One Sunday morning as I was puttering about the house (read: waking up ever so slowly), my housemate Dingus (yes, a nickname) asked if I wanted to get some food in town. I said no, and then quickly reversed my opinion when he mentioned he was going to get ramen. Corinne joined us and we rode to town in style in Uncle Peduncle, Dingus' whale/bike.
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| With Corinne & Dingus |
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| Corinne & me, driving Uncle Peduncle |
I finally got back to work on the shark boats in June! I spent both days of my weekend out on the water and wasn't sure I was going to survive - I'm wildly out of shape compared to my friends who are on the water every day - but I made it through. Got to swim with whalesharks, got paid for it, had amazing times. And on my first day back, I got to enjoy this sunrise as we left to collect the customers for the day:
Around the end of May, I started making big moves to buy a new car. Tessie is on her last legs, Mal, my mechanic, was worried about me driving her anywhere that was any distance from town, and Mia pointed me in the direction of an ad on Facebook of a guy in town who was selling the exact car I had described to her as what I wanted next. So even though I hadn't really planned to replace Tessie until after I returned from my trip to the States in Aug/Sept, it felt a bit like the universe had plunked a good thing in my lap and I needed to make the leap. So I did! Anyway, meet Tito:
The purchasing portion of acquiring Tito was hassle-free, but her registration had to be changed as she was licensed in South Australia. To get her swapped to Western Australia, she had to go through a process commonly referred to as "going over the pits." Basically the mechanic makes sure that every tiny little thing about the car is sound before it can pass. A few minor changes needed to happen before Tito would pass, but it all seemed reasonable for me to sort out - I just had to learn how to do some auto-electrical wiring. Good thing I have a brother for that. Anj spent probably 3 hours one morning talking me through the aisles of AutoPro, buying to necessary materials, and then through the actual wiring of the car. I had to remove a light bar, you see, and it was hard wired into my spotties. So it all had to come out and then get re-wired to work. After a lot of fuss and feathers, I got the job done.
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| These two kept me company over the several days I worked on the car |
Two weeks ago I finally got to see Kieran again! It'd been 6 months since I visited him in Broome, and I talked him into meeting me halfway for a weekend so we could catch up. We spent the weekend adventuring around Dampier, about 6 hours from Exmouth. We hung out at one of my favorite dive bars, The Mermaid, which is right on the water in Dampier and has no pretentions about it, and went exploring the National Park there. We found a few really peaceful swimming holes, and then found a beautiful camp spot along the banks of the Nullagine River, near Miaree Pool, to spend a night.
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| "I made you birthday cupcakes since you'll be in the States in August and I won't see you" - Kieran |
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| Tadpoles nibbling my toes in the National Park |
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| Kieran by our campsite |
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| Perfect camping weather for a fire and snug sleeping |
When Kieran had to drive back to Broome on Monday morning, I had thought we'd grab breakfast in Karratha and then both of us would head off in our opposing directions. I didn't have to be back at work until 3pm on Tuesday though, so Kieran encouraged me to camp again. I'm so glad I did! Back I went to the river, scoped out a few other locations but ended up sleeping in the same spot we had the night before. So beautiful, and I had it all to myself. Because I fell asleep right after sunset, I was up at 4am and did the drive to Exmouth without dramas. A nice nap before work and I was back, refreshed, and ready to go.
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| Stu on his birthday |
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| Dingus & Corinne hanging at our house |
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| Dingus was skipper at work on his birthday! |
The last two weeks have been a whirlwind of birthdays (Mia, Jess, Dingus & more), school holidays, and work. Sunday, my only rostered day off this week (and even then, I was technically on call), Matty and I went down into the Gulf on his jetski for a day of fishing and fun. We explored Turtle Creek, did a little fishing, and zoomed about on the ski. It was a beautiful day for it - flat seas, warm but not too hot, and few people around. As we were heading back to the car, Matty suggested we unload the fishing and snorkeling gear so I could have a proper zip around on the ski without worry of losing something. So we did, and he told me to let her rip, so I did.
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| We caught a cod! |
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| Starfish by Roberts Island in the Gulf |
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| Another starfish |
Matty apparently misjudged me: he did not hold on tight and went flying when I was doing a sweet, tight turn. His knee banged his sunnies as he flew off the back, and his sunnies sliced straight into his face. So anyway, when I went back to pick him up out of the water he was laughing hysterically (alarmingly) and had blood pouring down his face. Thank goodness he didn't knock himself out. So away we went, off to town and the Exmouth Hospital where we spent a few hours waiting for the doctor to do his duty and install two layers of stitches to Matty's rather deep head gash. Lessons learned: Matty should hold on better & I should make him wear a life jacket in case he DOES knock himself out next time. Other lessons: my driving isn't going to change.
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| The man has pretty eyes for all that I sliced up his face |
All the fun I've been having finally caught up with me this week, and I caught the flu that's been racing through town. Since Monday I've been croaking and intermittently coughing my head off. I think I've finally turned the corner on it, but Tai told me to take another night off so I can keep resting. Since I can't speak much louder than a whisper at this point, I'm really grateful. Now I just need to heal up so I can fly down to Perth this weekend, as planned, to see Weronika before she moves home to Poland, and to meet Nat's twin baby boys! All healing thoughts welcomed!
